2004 Barolo Riserva
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Tasting notes
Borgogno's 2004 Barolo Riserva emerges from the glass with a host of tobacco, smoke, game, licorice and incense. The firm tannins are very much old school, but at the same time, the wine's mid-weight structure is a bit of a departure from the bombastic wines of the past. With air, the 2004 can be enjoyed today, but readers should expect a fairly burly style of Barolo with slightly oxidative notes that have begun to creep in.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
From three different vineyards: Cannubi, Fossati, Liste. Deep-centred ruby with orange tinges. Old school, sweet-sour Nebbiolo nose with hints of mulch and sweet red fruit. Succulent palate with intense acidity and gorgeous, grainy tannins. Stylish and long and animating. (WS)
The 2004 Barolo Riserva emerges from the glass with layers of silky fragrant red berries, flowers and spices. It, too, is quite representative of the year. Silky tannins frame the perfume, expressive fruit through to the finish. This is an especially refined style for Borgogno.
The 2004 Barolo Riserva is a deceptively mid-weight, haunting Barolo that wafts from the glass with scents of dried roses, tobacco, tar, licorice and leather. The wine quickly gains volume, transforming into a rich, structured Barolo oozing with classicism. Powerful tannins frame the incisive finish. It's hard to tell which road the 2004 Riserva will take, in other words will it develop along feminine lines; or will the more virile qualities ultimately dominate the wine's balance? Either way, the 2004 Riserva is a superb Barolo and is easily one of the finest young wines I have ever tasted from Borgogno. The inner perfume and sweetness leave a lasting impression on the finish.
About the producer
One of Piedmont’s oldest estates, Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, often known as just “Borgogno”, is archly traditional. Favouring long macerations and extended ageing in Slavonian cask, it is best known for its impressive Barolos, especially the prized late releases from its extensive library stock.