2012 Meursault Les Perrieres

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres comes from three different parcels that are each vinified separately. It has a very pure, aniseed-tinged bouquet that is vibrant and intense. The palate is well-balanced on the entry with orange cordial and that aniseed tincture coming through. The acidity is nicely judged and the finish long and tense. This is a very commendable Perrieres from Bouchard Pere & Fils. Drink 2015-2030. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

Pale yellow. Subdued, pure aromas of white peach, lemon and stone. Concentrated, dense and juicy, with strong acidity giving cut to the flavors of apple, white flowers and minerals. Really crisp and alive, not to mention nicely balanced. The long, mounting finish features saline minerality and excellent floral lift. From a crop level of just 30 hectoliters per hectare.

This is surprisingly expressive at this early stage with its high-toned nose of wet stone, spiced pear and acacia blossom. There is excellent tension to the even stonier and quite finely detailed flavors that possess a seductively textured mid-palate yet the balanced, intense and moderately dry finale is mildly austere even while displaying just enough wood to notice. This should age well though note that in this case I would recommend allowing for at least 5 years of bottle age before trying a bottle. Tasted: Jun 15, 2014. Drink: 2019+