2008 Brunello di Montalcino

From Stella di Campalto, started in 1992, biodynamic. Mid ruby. A little bit oaky on the nose – which is, mercifully, becoming rare. Nice transparency. A cross between old and new schools. (JR)

One day, I would like to put Stella di Campalto's 2008 Brunello di Montalcino in a blind tasting with a handful of top-notch Burgundies and see how many people can pick this wine out. Sweet crushed flowers, savory herbs and cherries all waft from the glass. There is an ethereal, lifted, intensely perfumed quality to the 2008 that reminds me of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair's wines. The 2008 isn't a blockbuster, but it is very pretty.

One day, I would like to put Stella di Campalto’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino in a blind tasting with a handful of top-notch Burgundies and see how many people can pick this wine out. Sweet crushed flowers, savory herbs and cherries all waft from the glass. There is an ethereal, lifted, intensely perfumed quality to the 2008 that reminds me of Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s wines. The 2008 isn’t a blockbuster, but it is very pretty. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. These are two beautiful wines from Stella di Campalto, one of Montalcino’s new generation of emerging producers. Deeply inspired by producers such as Gianfranco Soldera and Piero Palmucci, Campalto crafts compelling Rossos and Brunellos from her vineyards in Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Campalto follows biodynamic principles in her vineyards. The various parcels are vinified and aged separately until Campalto prepares her blends just prior to bottling the Rosso. Although often quite delicate and approachable when young, both the Rosso and Brunello blossom with time in bottle. Readers who haven’t checked out these wines owe it to themselves to do so. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404