2010 Barolo Vigna Colonnello

The most open of the 2010s, the 2010 Colonnello has a wonderful immediacy to it. Dark cherry, plum, cloves, new leather, menthol and a hint of oak. Firm yet well-integrated tannins provide the backbone for a core of explosive fruit in this racy, extroverted wine. The Colonnello marries the round, supple personality of this site with the classic sense of structure and tannin of the year. If I were going to open any of Conterno's 2010s before age ten it would be the Colonnello, but even then I would try to hold off. Quite simply, this is one of the very best Colonnellos in recent memory.

Good full red, deeper than the 2009. Pure but tight aromas of licorice, flowers and minerals are lifted by a peppery nuance. Juicy and scented but ungiving today, with strong minerality contributing to the impression of energy. Big, broad, sandy tannins currently cut off the wine's fruit but its finishing grip and outstanding inner-mouth tension suggest that it will be very long-lived. This should ultimately surpass the 2009, which is much more generous today.

Showing an increased level of heft and concentration, the 2010 Barolo Bussia Colonnello is aged a few more months in Slavonian oak compared to the base Barolo from the celebrated Bussia cru. Oak spice, leather and tobacco are folded within bright notes of dark cherry and cassis. The wine imparts a sophisticated and thickly textured sensation on the finish. Colonnello is only at the very beginning of its bottle evolution. Drink: 2017-2030. eRobertParker.com.July, 2014