2005 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru

Dugat’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru originates in La Perriere (below Mazis) and Craipillot (just west of town), whose fruit he has been fermenting together for years. There is even more chocolate and sweet cherry richness on display than in the village Gevrey, along with a considerable measure of marrowy meatiness, fresh cherry and cranberry fruit, sap and vigor. Resinous and bitter elements are nicely covered in sweetness and woven into the tightly-knit fabric of this Pinot that finishes with considerable tannic chew, yet also a satisfying flux of fresh fruit. Revisit this in 5-7 years, although it certainly has the material to hold fast for considerably longer. Known for his low yields and intensely concentrated Pinots (all but the Bourgogne raised in new barrels), Claude Dugat – with the increasing involvement of his son Bertrand – has rendered a formidable 2005 collection that makes no concessions to early charm. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.

Saturated red-ruby. Black cherry and licorice on the nose; conveys an impression of superripeness without coming across as heavy. Then quite suave in the mouth, with lovely focus to its flavors and a light touch. Builds impressively toward the back, finishing with taut but sweet tannins and terrific vibrancy and persistence. Considering Dugat's warning about surmaturite, this offers lovely finesse.

This is riper still but interestingly, more reserved with violet and red pinot fruit aromas that possess a hint of animale that can also be found on the quite fine and pure flavors that are even more obviously ripe in the mouth than on the nose , all wrapped in a mouth coating finish. As Dugat suggests, this is certainly impressive but it's borderline too ripe and actually not as well balanced as the straight villages even thought this is clearly more concentrated. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jan, 2007