2006 Batard Montrachet

In contrast to the expressiveness of the Bienvenues, this is aromatically quite closed and tight with only glimpses of orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes discernable though the big-bodied and obviously well-muscled flavors are rich, pure and balanced if perhaps not quite as concentrated but somewhat curious, are even finer, which is not the usual result when these two wines are compared. The explosive finish is almost painfully intense and every bit as long as that of the Bienvenues. A qualitative choice though the character and personality of the two is notably different.

Cask sample. Much more low key than some of the premier crus with lots of weight underneath but not very expressive yet. A little bit dull for the moment if truth be told but then he has made such a good job of the other wines that presumably this will come right in the end..? (JR)

Reticent nose hints at menthol. Fatter and drier than the Bienvenues, with distinctly chewy, tactile flavors of peach flesh and nut oil. Very rich wine but with good nervy acidity too. Not at all a sweet style of Batard; from vines picked at the beginning of the harvest. This will need time in bottle. (I missed the Chevalier-Montrachet, as it was in another cave