2000 Palmer

Breathe deep to enjoy the curl of violet and woodsmoke aromatics that are coming out of this glass. Softened russet pink around the edges at 21 years old, still deep ruby through the core. The fruits are a little more tertiary than I expected, brambled raspberry, with hawthorn, tobacco, white pepper, truffle and campfire notes, but as it opens up, the palate expands outwards and builds in concentration and grip. No question this once-stubborn vintage is now open for business, and overall this is soft and welcoming but has decades ahead of it. Harvest September 21 to October 7. 60% new oak.

The 2000 Palmer is a very different “beast” than the 2001, and I use that word intentionally. This is much more feral on the nose, and quite ferrous, presenting leather and dried herbs, smudged red berry fruit, and a hint of fig that emerges with time. The brettanomyces sticks out a bit here. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins and good density, very earthy in style and certainly more evolved than the succeeding vintage, yet you cannot help falling for its charms. It evolves wonderfully in the glass, actually closing in a little toward the finish, and suggesting that contrary to what the nose suggests, it will repay further cellaring. Excellent. (NM)