1999 Palmer

One of the joys of the Connoisseur Week is to allow chateaux to showcase vintages that they did particularly well in, and that might have been overlooked. The 1999 Palmer is a perfect example of this - generally tougher on the Left Bank than the 1998 or 2000 on either side of this, but very much a success at Palmer. Less ethereal than the 1999 that we also drank, but it is smooth and supple, with a still-young tannic structure, tobacco leaf and white truffles, and the black fruit kick that reflects the high levels of Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest September 17 to October 1. Served blind.

In magnum, the 1999 Palmer is drinking beautifully, offering up a deep and lavish bouquet of cherries and berries mingled with hints of cigar box and violets. Full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a sumptuous core of fruit, velvety tannins and a long, expansive finish, it's impressively seamless and concentrated and stands out as one of the vintage's high points. Drunk side by side with Château Margaux, also in magnum, it enjoyed a narrow but persuasive lead.

The 1999 Palmer has long been one of my favorite wines from the Left Bank in this vintage. Now at 20 years of age, it has a sumptuous bouquet that you would attribute to a warmer growing season than 1999: mulberry, fresh dates and sloes, all beautifully defined, and little different from how this wine showed a couple of years ago. The medium-bodied palate is well-balanced, with fine tannin and plenty of tarry black fruit. This bottle had not been decanted, and I feel it seems more compact than it would after a couple of hours’ aeration. But there is much freshness and vigor here, along with firm grip and a classic tarry finish. Excellent. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the estate. (NM)