2009 Gewurztraminer d'E

A classic, pungent nose of bacon fat, celeriac, and rose petal, greets me from the glass of Ostertag’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Vignoble d’E, leading to a glossy, opulent, unabashedly sweet palate that finishes broadly and softly though – like its 2008 counterpart – quite buoyantly given its having retained sugar at the expense of alcohol. I would drink it solo over the next 3-4 years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale yellow. Sexy, varietally classic aromas of apricot, citrus peel, ginger and cured meat. Silky, rich and sweet (40 g/l r.s.), but with surprising spine for 2009 gew u rztraminer thanks to well-integrated acidity. The flavors of nectarine, candied lemon peel and ginger build nicely toward the back end. Nicely balanced, persistent wine, and not at all alcoholic (just 12.8%). This might well have become topheavy had it fermented more of its sugar.