2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is another super- finessed wine. Subtle floral notes meld into expressive red berries in a sumptuous Brunello that captures the essence of the vintage. The style is rich and deeply textured, but the 2007, as outstanding as it is, needs at least a few more years in bottle. Once again, finesse rules the day.

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is another super-finessed wine. Subtle floral notes meld into expressive red berries in a sumptuous Brunello that captures the essence of the vintage. The style is rich and deeply textured, but the 2007, as outstanding as it is, needs at least a few more years in bottle. Once again, finesse rules the day. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Vincenzo Abbruzzese has a cellar full of exceptional wines that will thrill Valdicava fans. The 2012s are spectacular at this stage and, along with the 2010s, are the best wines in the cellar today. In lesser vintages, the estate bottles some Rosso, but in top years there is very little, if any, Rosso. That will be the case with 2011 and 2012 respectively, given the development of the 2011 in the cellar and the exceptional quality of 2012. Abbruzzese made the decision to bottle his entire 2011 production as Rosso, an unheard move, but one that frankly recognizes the quality of that vintage. Abbruzzese told me his wines tend to have a fairly stable and linear development during vinification and in aging. With the 2011s, however, he observed a slow start and a rapid improvement in the cellar, something that concerned him with regard to the potential ageworthiness of the year. As a result, Abbruzzese declassified all of his wine to Rosso in 2011, with the exception of one cask of Madonna del Piano fruit that may eventually be released as straight Brunello. Although Abbruzzese says he still has reservations about the year and wants to be absolutely convinced of the quality of the remaining 2011 before it is released, the distinct possibility remains this cask will also be declassified to Rosso. As for the 2008 Brunello, it is one of the best wines of the vintage. Here, too, Abbruzzese’s decision to blend in the Madonna del Piano lots (there will be no Riserva) contributes markedly to the wine’s quality. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Quite dark ruby with orange tinges. Perfumed and heady. Sweetly concentrated but there is complexity and just enough acidity. Very young. (WS)