2006 Lynch Bages

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it just tapers a little towards the finish. Not bad, but missing a bit of substance and length. Tasted at the Lynch-Bages vertical at the château.

A touch subdued on the aromatics, still holding back even at 16 years old. As it opens it majors on earthy, rustic fruits, undergrowth, tobacco, tar, a big tannic body that is reflective of a vintage that was more complicated than the 2005, but that offered wines with frame and long ageability. As it opens, waves of liqourice root and rose petal appear. First vintage where Jean-Charles Cazes replaced his father Jean-Michel as director of the estate, and the first for Nicolas Labenne as technical director. 70% new oak.

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Château Lynch Bages has another quite vivacious bouquet with lively black cherries, kirsch and wild mint aromas that do not hold back. I love the purity here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine supple tannin, well-judged acidity, a gentle grip in the mouth, and plenty of lightly spiced and surprisingly intense fruit on the bravura finish. The Cazes family oversaw a very sophisticated Lynch-Bages in this vintage that may well surpass many peoples' expectations. Tasted January 2016.