2007 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese

Caramelized, singed peach and grilled pineapple drenched in honey, characterize the creamily-textured, rich Fritz Haag 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese. Salted caramel and browned butter notes add a unique savor to the oily, rich palate and while this lacks the striking clarity, poise, and energy of the best wines in this year’s collection, it is remarkable for its combination of finishing richness and levity. I would look for further complexities to emerge over the coming decade, and the wine to perform well for at least three decades. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have done it again, scoring consistent and sensational success throughout their range. And if 2007 cannot – like 2006 – be compared with any iconic vintage of yore (in 2006’s case, 1953) so much the more exciting. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463.