2005 Clos Vougeot

A 2005 Clos Vougeot smells reminiscent of grilled lamb, with ripe black cherry, cassis, and tobacco. Dark, somber flavors persist on the very meaty palate, with bitter herbs, fruit skin and cherry pit inflections. This infiltrates every corner of the mouth with fine tannin, offering a sedate finish clearly informed by enormous extract. It was bottled especially recently and I think the finish will have more to offer in a matter of weeks. But the long-term prognosis is for 10-12 years without a parole tasting. At the time of my visit, Regis Forey had only recently (with one exception noted below) bottled his 2005s – unfiltered, and with very low levels of sulfur. These are a profoundly-satisfying, and ageworthy group of wines, but not at all showy. Forey was not timid with extraction when it came to this vintage; on the other hand he was one of several growers who told me he had recently lightened up on the use of new wood, and one of several to employ a significant number of 500 liter (double barrique) barrels to diminish the stave surface to wine volume ratio and enhance freshness. Forey’s line-up has been significantly enhanced in recent years by rental agreements. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Full ruby-red. Spicy currant, licorice and tobacco on the rather reticent nose. Rich and sappy in the mouth, but with an element of austerity to its black fruit flavors. A bit hardened today by CO2 A very taut style, finishing with youthfully tough tannins. Forey agrees that this is quite reserved and austere today.