2009 Soutard

Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, violet and licorice on the high-toned nose, lifted by a whiff of cinnamon. Densely packed and ripe but with firm acidity leavening the wine's sweetness and keeping it fresh. This is actually rather closed today, even a bit youthfully medicinal. The persistent finish features a solid spine of tannins and acidity and noteworthy thrust. I'd hold this for five or six years before pulling the cork, at which time it may merit an even higher rating.

The finest Soutard since the 1964, the new owners have built a much denser, richer, fuller-bodied wine without losing any of its masculinity and robust character. Dense bluish/purple, with notes of licorice, truffle, camphor and charcoal, the wine is quite backward, tannic and structured beneath the luxurious concentration of blackberry and black cherry fruit. Forget it for 4-5 years and drink it over the following 25+.