2007 Puligny Montrachet

Leflaive’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet smells of honeysuckle, lily, brown-spiced apple, lavender, vanilla, and toasted nuts; makes correspondingly sweet floral and fruity suggestions on a pliable, soothing palate; and finishes with considerable polish and persistence, if a more austere chalky sense than what went before lead one to anticipate. Parcels informing this blend now inhabit an arc nearly three-quarters of the way around the town, insuring significant diversity of terroir. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Pale yellow. Aromatic nose offers peach, vanilla and toast. Gentle and sweet in the middle palate but with sound acidity underneath. Tightens up on the back end, finishing with very good mineral persistence. This may ultimately merit an outstanding rating. (Incidentally, the estate's Bourgogne, which I tasted from cuve, showed uncommon size and aromatic complexity for its appellation.)