2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille
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Tasting notes
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille mesmerizes as it envelops the senses with a seductive bouquet of red plums, dusty cedar spice box, incense and cloves. It opens with a pretty inner sweetness yet quickly takes form as crisp red berry fruits flow across silken textures, contrasted by hints of tart citrus and saline mineral tones that add a crunchy sensation toward the close. This finishes remarkably fresh, perfumed and almost zesty in character, with a tinge of sour cherry that keeps the mouth salivating. The slightest tug of fine tannins lingers on. While both came direct from the winery, the bottle I tasted in 2021 was nowhere near as fresh and energetic as today’s specimen. This is a fantastic showing.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reminds me of walking into a bakery at daybreak, as all of the aromas of fresh breads and pastries slowly rise, blending in a mix of confectioner’s spices and, behind it all, a core of tart raspberry preserve that would be used for the center of the day’s Linzer tarts. Here I’m finding soft, fleshy textures, nicely lifted by a core of brisk acids, with mineral-tinged black fruits and florals that amass toward the close. While the 2004 doesn’t have the follow-through you’d expect from its bouquet, it tapers off lightly structured and long, with inner rose tones that linger on.
Dark ruby with a narrow orange rim. A lot of oak on the nose but it is beginning to integrate into the fruit. Hints of tobacco leaf. Still a little embryonic and with concentrated but subdued fruit. Tactile fireworks provided by the firm tannins and lifted acidity. Still plenty of time ahead. (WS)
Deep, bright red. Nose initially shows dark berries, chocolate and sweet oak but opens with air to reveal redder fruits and flowers that carry through onto the palate. Big, chewy and rich yet with an almost magically light touch, with terrific concentration and energy to the highly concentrated flavors. A distinctly powerful style of Brunello, finishing quite broad, with sappy, saline energy, superb drive and firm, mouthcoating tannins.
About the producer
Gaja has been at the forefront of the Piedmont wine scene for many years and is Barbaresco’s most decorated producer. The winery has received a record number of Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri awards – the highest accolade from Italy’s leading wine publication.