2009 Chablis Blanchots

The 2009 Chablis Blanchots is deep, powerful and intense, particularly in the way it blossoms on the palate with layers of radiant fruit. This is a striking wine graced with an expressive, open personality that resonates through to the generous finish. I especially like the raciness of the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. (Not yet released) Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village’s uncontested superstars. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Pale yellow. Very closed nose hints at stone and marzipan. In a silky, sweet style, especially following the more closed-in Montee de Tonnerre, with flavors of lemon confit and minerals. Boasts enticing mid-palate sweetness but finishes distinctly stony and more austere. This is less marked by the recent bottling than the Montee de Tonnerre but I'm not convinced that it will be as complex in the long run.

Very closed but pure nose hints at lemon, menthol, minerals and crushed rock. Stony, powerful and quite dry but in a distinctly rich style; in fact, today this shows a bit less tension and impression of acidity than the Montee de Tonnerre. Really dusts the palate with minerals on the classically dry aftertaste.