2009 The Judge Chardonnay

Honey, hazelnut, dried apricots, wild flowers and orange peel meld together in the glass in the 2009 Chardonnay The Judge, a wine that is just beginning to show the first signs of development. The 2009 is rich, exotic and oily on the palate, with fabulous depth and great overall balance. This is a wonderfully complete wine, a bit on the big side, but still impeccable in its balance.

Medium yellow. Nose begins a bit tropical and closed-in but aeration brings great lift from orange rind, lime and iodiney sea breeze. Billowing and weightless on entry, then builds inexorably in the middle palate, showing subtle salty and leesy nuances and powerful crushed-stone minerality. Kongsgaard bottles his chardonnays during the second June or July, when they're beyond the primary, tutti-frutti stage. This extremely backward wine finishes with outstanding grip, piquant citrus lift and great persistence. California chardonnay doesn't get any better than this--and very little Burgundy can equal it either.

The 2009 Chardonnay The Judge sparkles on the palate with brilliant layers of fruit. It is bright, articulate and beautifully centered from start to finish. There is a weightless richness that is almost impossible to describe for its pure elegance. A dazzling, crystalline finish rounds out the flinty, mineral-drenched notes. This is easily the equal of any Chardonnay being made in the world today.