2006 Bonnes Mares

Mint, concentrated red and black fruits, smoked meat, and black pepper pungently scent the De Vogue 2006 Bonnes Mares. These migrate with almost implosive intensity to a palate lushly textured though finely tannic and almost implacably dense yet shot through with electric energy. Here are both the caressing and invigorating aspects at once present in so many of the best 2006s, each accentuated. Like so many young wines of its appellation, this is relatively backward and slightly unruly, but the longer the wine takes on air the more both its senses of richness and energy are enhanced. I would give this at least 3-4 years in bottle and anticipate at least 10-12 years of riveting performance. Francois Millet is always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage, and for him 2006 is an instance of "jellied" fruit character. I can certainly agree with him about the seductiveness of the vintage at this address, and his laconic comment on the communal hail – "not too problematic" – seems clearly born out by the quality this estate has achieved. (I unfortunately did not have chance to taste the de Vogue Amoureuses post-malo, so I must refrain from offering a note.) Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Mid ruby. Some evolution at the rim. Sweet and rather diffuse nose. Very sweet start. Big and muscular. Definitely grand cru concentration. Chunky wine. (JR)

Deep, bright red. Blueberry, licorice, violet, menthol and fresh herbs on the nose, with a medicinal reserve. The rather backward medicinal character follows through on the palate, but there's also a deeply seductive, succulent quality to this grand cru's very fresh dark fruit and spice flavors. The building tannins are supported by the wine's lush middle palate. Finishes fresh, stylish and long.