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Tasting notes
Bright medium red. Explosive aromas of cherry and iron lifted by high-toned exotic spices. Hugely rich and fleshy, plush and full, with the powerful spice character following through on the palate. Finishes with terrific breadth and substantial dusty tannins. Millet finds the 2002s less subtle than the 2014s. The wines are a bit sweeter as well as higher in alcohol, he added. I should note that this sample came from a 375-milliliter bottle, so the same wine in a 750 almost certainly has a lot more life ahead of it.
Critic scores
Average Score
Pierre Rovani
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Classic ruby color. A very expressive nose of pungent lavender, violet and a mix of jammy red and black fruit cut with subtle earth notes. As it should be, this is a big, muscular, robust and powerful wine that is impressively concentrated and hugely long with a mouth coating and chewy finish. This is a very ripe wine and finishes with a touch of warmth. Most impressive and slightly better than I originally envisioned. Note that the firm structure will require plenty of patience.
(bottled in March) Good deep red. Explosive, sharply delineated aromas of raspberry, minerals, mocha, tar and cola; at once supersweet and sappy. Silky on entry, then hugely concentrated and dense with extract. The flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, cherry, spices and minerals are brilliantly defined and vibrant. Like an essence of Bonnes-Mares, with the wine's firm tannins perfectly buffered by a wave of finishing fruit. Millet emphasizes that the estate's holding is in the southeastern, "more elegant" section of this grand cru, where there is reddish topsoil over decomposed limestone, not the white marl found in the northwest corner of the cru.
The intense scents of the 2002 Bonnes Mares burst from the glass, exhibiting dark jammy fruits, spices, and blood oranges. Bold, powerful, and crammed with black cherries, allspice, and raspberries, it reveals copious quantities of exquisitely ripened tannin in its finish. This noble, muscular, extravagant wine should be drunk between 2007 and 2017. Importers: Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; A David Schildknecht Selection, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (513) 229-3630; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; Chambers & Chambers, Inc., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; and a Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; various American importers.
About the producer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is one of Burgundy’s most revered domaines, defined by its historic stewardship of Musigny and its refined, age-worthy Chambolle-Musigny. Its wines are benchmarks for collectors seeking grand cru pedigree over power.