2012 Clos des Lambrays

Not a monopole, but Taupenot-Merme is the only other producer. Planted 40 years ago by his father just behind their house. Dark crimson. Sumptuous and very concentrated. Very exciting rich and nervy. In a new barrel but not oak-dominated. Gorgeous fresh fruit will presumaby completely obliterate any oak notes in time. (JR)

The elusive 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was matured in a single new barrel this year, around 170-litres just in case you were thinking of ordering a palette or two. It has a very attractive, generous bouquet with brambly red berry fruit and minerals, supporting that new wood with ease. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, plenty of spicy red fruit and a lovely airiness to it. It certainly copes with the new wood very competently and it is well integrated. You will never see a bottle – but it is actually lovely wine. Unfortunately, on this occasion I have deferred posting scores for most of Domaine Taupenot-Merme’s 2012s, not as an indication of quality, but because after I informed Romain Taupenot that they just did not taste “correct,” he later discovered that the samples had been taken too abruptly from tank and had been given insufficient time to settle. Therefore, I will review those wines next year and for the time being, focus on the samples that were representative, mainly from his negociant arm and ironically, from his grand cru that is virtually impossible to find (but since the sample came directly from barrel was at least as it should be!) “It was a nightmare vintage during the growing season,” Romain told me, probably unaware that his nightmare was continuing as his 2012 samples froze onstage. “We had every disease apart from grey rot. Yields in Gevrey were above that of Chambolle and Morey, at around 37 hectoliters per hectare. We never used more than 40% new oak as I want to express the terroir.” As I mentioned, I will return some time next year to reappraise them. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620, Imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com and through Armit Wines in the UK.

The elusive 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was matured in a single new barrel this year, around 170-litres just in case you were thinking of ordering a palette or two. It has a very attractive, generous bouquet with brambly red berry fruit and minerals, supporting that new wood with ease. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, plenty of spicy red fruit and a lovely airiness to it. It certainly copes with the new wood very competently and it is well integrated. You will never see a bottle – but it is actually lovely wine. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com