2009 Chablis Les Forets

The 2009 Chablis La Forest opens with a layered, beautifully delineated bouquet. It is round, sweet and long on the palate in an understated, classy expression of the vintage. At the same time, it is one of the more accessible 2009s right now. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Vincent Dauvissat’s 2010 harvest started on September 21st, a few days earlier than his average over the last ten years, which has been closer to September 25th. The vintage is marked by very low yields. Couleur and millerandage were most pronounced in the grand crus, where yields were 40% lower than normal. At the same time, the wines have retained plenty of acidity, making for very interesting personalities across the range. The 2010s were aged in oak (roughly 10% new), on their fine lees, and racked once after the malos, which were finished by the end of January. The Forest, Preuses and Clos saw some new oak during the alcoholic fermentation. Dauvissat planned to begin bottling the 2010s in October or November, 2011. In 2009, Dauvissat harvested a week earlier, starting on September 14. Vintage 2009 was marked by a hot August that resulted in ripe wines with acidities that are lower than normal. Within the context of Chablis, where acidity is rarely lacking, a warm yet well-balanced season can be a good thing in that the wines are easier to drink when young, which certainly appears to be the case here. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale yellow. Compelling aromas of warm stone, paraffin, anise, vanilla and toast are subtle rather than exuberant. Opulent on entry, then penetrating and tight in the middle, with remarkably complex flavors of lemon, licorice, chlorophyll, tarragon and dill. A large-scaled but wonderfully fine-grained premier cru with superb length. Leaves behind a scent of licorice in the retronasal passage. This will offer early accessibility, but I'd hold rather hold my bottles for seven or eight years.

Knockout Chablis aromas of steely minerality, crushed stone, lemon, white flowers, fresh green vegetables and white pepper. Wonderfully rich and generous on the palate, the sweetest yet of these 2009s and boasting the roundness of the vintage's best examples. The minerality returns on the back end, which finishes with notes of silex, warm stones and licorice. Superb premier cru in the making.