2011 Chassagne Montrachet Virondot

The 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Virondot has a pleasing, if slightly “orthodox” bouquet with freshly sliced pear, beeswax and dandelion defining the aromatics, though it needs a little more vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with a satisfying entry: citrus lemon, cooking apple and a hint of gooseberry. It is nicely balanced with well-judged acidity, though like the nose, the finish is a little conservative. Drink now-2017. Fernand Morey founded this domaine back in 1919, when he acquired a couple of hectares in Chassagne plus a coaching house slap bang in the middle of the village. He was joined by his son, Marc, in 1944, and subsequently by his daughter and her husband, Bernard Mollard, who presently run the domaine with their daughter, Sabine. During that time, the family’s holdings were expanded so that there are now parcels in Saint Aubin, Puligny and Chassagne itself. The approach here is traditional with prudent use of batonnage, 11 months elevage and no more than 30% new oak. I have to say, I was very impressed by the quality of these wines that displayed precision, finesse and typicite. Most of these notes were written after about one hour of opening, so readers should note that they really come into their own with at least 60 minutes of aeration. Therefore, do not be alarmed if they seem a little “reticent” at first and do not be afraid of a short decant. I look forward to tasting the entire range chez Morey in the future. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Not as frank as some. Slightly wet wool. Slightly dull. (JR)

The 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Virondot has a pleasing, if slightly “orthodox” bouquet with freshly sliced pear, beeswax and dandelion defining the aromatics, though it needs a little more vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with a satisfying entry: citrus lemon, cooking apple and a hint of gooseberry. It is nicely balanced with well-judged acidity, though like the nose, the finish is a little conservative. Drink now-2017. ||Fernand Morey founded this domaine back in 1919, when he acquired a couple of hectares in Chassagne plus a coaching house slap bang in the middle of the village. He was joined by his son, Marc, in 1944, and subsequently by his daughter and her husband, Bernard Mollard, who presently run the domaine with their daughter, Sabine. During that time, the family’s holdings were expanded so that there are now parcels in Saint Aubin, Puligny and Chassagne itself. The approach here is traditional with prudent use of batonnage, 11 months elevage and no more than 30% new oak. I have to say, I was very impressed by the quality of these wines that displayed precision, finesse and typicite. Most of these notes were written after about one hour of opening, so readers should note that they really come into their own with at least 60 minutes of aeration. Therefore, do not be alarmed if they seem a little “reticent” at first and do not be afraid of a short decant. I look forward to tasting the entire range chez Morey in the future. eRobertParker.com.October, 2013