2005 Volnay

Informed by several parcels below the premier cru slopes, the Lafarge 2005 Volnay displays ultra-bright, fresh red currant accented by cherry pit and chalk, with a fascinating counterpoint of oily texture and refreshing brightness. In all of these respects, the wine is quite consistent with the character of this year’s generic cuvees and Cote de Beaune Villages. But here we have brown spice, citrus zest and sweet floral complexities, and a bright, mineral-saturated, zesty spicy persistence that suggests premier cru quality. In its trumpet-like bright treble, this sounds atypically lilting notes and in a major key, when compared with the vintage norm. Jun 2007, www.robertparker.com