2011 Cote Rotie La Viaillere

More inky in color and backward, with plenty of tannin, the 2011 Cote Rotie La Vialliere is masculine and firm, and will need cellar time to become approachable. Giving up rich aromas and flavors of plum, black raspberry, crushed rock and serious minerality, it should be forgotten for 3-5 years, and drink nicely through 2031. Other than a lackluster, slightly odd Condrieu, this was a brilliant lineup of wines by proprietor Jean-Michel Gerin. Farming 17 acres (organically) in Cote Rotie (mostly in the northern part of the appellation) and Condrieu, Gerin-s first vintage was in 1987. The winemaking style here is quite modern, with lots of destemming and plenty of small barrels, some of which are new. The wines show fantastic purity and also age gracefully Importer: Esprit Du Vin, Port Washington, NY; Tel. (516) 802-4758

(aged for 18 months in new demi-muids): We first tasted this wine from a Stockinger cask and then from an Ermitage barrel and the contrast was striking. The Stockinger version showed more overt vanilla character and vibrant red fruit while the sample pulled from the Ermitage cask was deeper and more brooding, with powerful cherry, licorice and smoke character. The hypothetical blend is spicy and intensely floral, with notes of anise and smoked meat emerging with air. It offers sappy dark berry flavors and becomes spicier on the back half. Finishes sweet, focused and very long, with subtle tannins adding grip.

More inky in color and backward, with plenty of tannin, the 2011 Cote Rotie La Vialliere is masculine and firm, and will need cellar time to become approachable. Giving up rich aromas and flavors of plum, black raspberry, crushed rock and serious minerality, it should be forgotten for 3-5 years, and drink nicely through 2031. Drink: 2016 - 2031. Wine Advocate #210 Dec 2013