2010 Volnay Santenots

The 2010 Volnay Santenots comes across as a touch fragile and fleeting. Silky tannins frame a core of expressive red fruit in this perfumed, supple red. The long, caressing finish is very attractive. It will be interesting to see the direction the Santenots takes over the next year or two. Today it is a bit on the ethereal side. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. It is always fascinating to settle in for a tasting with proprietor Mounir Saouma. With the exception of Jadot, I can't think of a single maison that draws across such a broad range of top vineyards. When taken together, the whites and reds provide insight to the performance of dozens of the finest sites in the region. Saouma is not much for comparisons when discussing 2010, saying quite simply, -2010 is 2010.- The vintage was not without some disappointments. Because of the miniscule yields, there is no 2010 Romanee St. Vivant or Richebourg. As always, these are some of the most unmanipulated wines being made in Burgundy. When I tasted the 2010s in November 2011, the wines had never been sulphured or racked. Saouma had just finished bottling his 2009s (a vintage many bottled on the early side) in October 2011! Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639

Bright, palish red. Aromas of black cherry and mocha, with a hint of leather. Soft, sweet and lightly chocolatey; a bit diffuse for a wine in this cellar. In a lighter style but nicely round. This reminded me of a Meursault in texture.