2005 Marsannay Champs St Etienne

Cinnamon-infused rhubarb and sour cherry inform the nose and palate of this juicy, downright gripping wine that finishes with intense fresh fruit, coffee grounds, and positively tactile tingling of spice as well as something which – once you know the wine’s origins – it is irresistible to think of as iron filings! This displays abundant and grainier tannins than its stable mates, but its infectious juiciness and dynamic personality somehow would not fit a wine of smoothness and polish. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Good full, saturated ruby-red. Subdued, rather austere aromas of blackberry and licorice. Broad, rich and full, with a perfumed violet quality and an exotic suggestion of mango. This highly aromatic Marsannay has intensity and power, and offers excellent potential.