2002 Grand Pontet

Revealing too much new oak, and still closed as well as angular, the 2002 displays a dense color along with sweet plum and black currant fruit, and a narrow, dry, austere finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years as the tannin/fruit balance is worrisome. An up and coming St.-Emilion estate, Grand-Pontet is run by Sophie Porquet, the sister of Gerard and Dominique Becot of Beau-Sejour-Becot. Produced from a 35-acre vineyard, the wine is a traditional blend of 70% Merlot, and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Very deep purple. Just one whiff of this was enough to remind me of the hand of Rolland. This opulent wine shot straight out of the glass. Straightforward, pleasing if not exactly distinctive palate. Grippingly oaky on the finish and a much more attractive than it was in its aggressively retro (late 90s) primeur state when I gave it just 13 points. (JR)

Good deep crimson. Very sweet-tasting with obvious barrel fermentation character and aggressively jagged acid and tannin. Very much a relic of the late 1990s. Take out those shoulder pads! (JR)