1996 Chambolle Musigny Beaux Bruns

Somewhat dark-colored, with traces of purple on the rim, this wine has a dense nose of beautifully ripe blackberries. Medium-to-full-bodied, broad, and rich, its mouth-coating character is packed with candied blueberries, black raspberries, and Asian spices. It possesses an admirably long finish that reveals soft tannins. Projected maturity: 2001-2007. Ghislaine Barthod was "charmed by this vintage, it has purity of fruit, raspberries mostly, and elegance." She informed me that she had dropped grapes a month or so before the harvest to reduce yields to 42 hectoliters/hectare. Barthod has enlarged her formerly-cramped cellar, and installed an elevator to assist her in making her delicious Chambolles. Since her wines are all produced with the same techniques, including 25% new oak, tasting at this domaine represents a lesson in this village's terroirs. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.