2011 Meursault Genevrieres
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Tasting notes
The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres has a touch more precision and mineralite on the nose compared to the Charmes. This is much more ethereal. The palate is crisp with bitter lemon and orange peel on the entry. Its energy derives from driving acidity and its vibrant nutty core. It demonstrates impressive weight on the finish with an oily texture on the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2016-2028. Prior to launching into Maison Lucien de Moine’s 2012 reds with irrepressible winemaker Mounir Saouma, we revisited some of his 2011s that are now in bottle. To recap, Mounir is one of the last Burgundy producers to bottle his wines, since he is a great believer in extended elevage. There is a clutch of outstanding wines in this vintage, particularly at the grand cru level, where one must admire the consistency across the board. As always, readers are reminded that Lucien Le Moine’s wines are made in a stringently reductive method, therefore they always need more decanting time than other growers. Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639
Critic scores
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Allen Meadows, Burghound
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Orange oil and a hint of fresh pineapple on the nose; reminded me a bit of a German riesling. Intensely flavored and glyceral too, with sneaky sweetness leavened by ripe pineappley acidity. Very tactile, superconcentrated wine with broad shoulders (Saouma describes it as "a red wine made from chardonnay") and a seriously palate-saturating finish. These 60-year-old vines always maintain very good acidity, notes Saouma. Exciting potential.
The 2011 Meursault Genevrières is even more reticent than the Perrieres. Acidity, structure and minerality are at the foreground in a raw, racy wine that needs further time in barrel and bottle to show the full breadth of its personality. A recent bottle of the 2009 was spectacular, but it, too, was quite young, and needed several hours just to open up.
A very spicy and mildly exotic nose offers up notes of herbal tea, acacia blossom, grilled nuts and essence of pear. There is a touch of wood on the intense, detailed and beautifully mineral-driven flavors that dance across the palate before culminating in a dry, clean and focused finish. This is not quite as complex as the very best of these 1ers but it is perhaps the classiest. Tasted: Jun 11, 2013. Drink: 2021+