2004 Meursault Genevrieres

(bottled in April) Peach, lime and vanillin oak on the nose. Suave and lush, even fat for the year, but at the same time fresh and elegant. Ripe citrus and subtle oak flavors are joined by subtle stoniness on the very long finish.

From young vines: Aromas of lemon oil and vanilla. Sweet flavor of orange oil. Nicely bright but shows only moderate depth. Finishes persistent if a bit skinny. From old vines: Pure aromas of orange and stone. Wonderfully intense and perfumed in the mouth; at once broad and juicy, with terrific fruit. Finishes with excellent thrust and superb length. There's a big difference between these two lots, but the final blend should be excellent.