1999 Meursault Genevrieres

The 1999 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières from François Jobard is quite attractive, though it's sufficiently evolved to make one wonder if there's an element of premature oxidation at play here, wafting from the glass with notes of buttered orchard fruit, caramelized peach, dried flowers and a subtle but unmistakable top note of fino sherry. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural and bright, with chewy extract, tangy acids and lovely volume and depth, but the oxidative suggestions are intrusive and detract from the overall impression. I suspect a pristine bottle would score considerably higher, but good luck finding one.