2004 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

Tasted blind in Hong Kong, the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatières 2004 from Domaine d'Auvenay is a brilliant wine from Lalou Bize-Leroy. It has a slight but pleasant reduction on the nose that takes you immediately to Coche-Dury! There are fleeting glimpses of popcorn and even burnt caramel, but they are dominated by the enthralling mineralité on display. The palate is extremely well balanced and continues its Coche-like tendencies. There is stunning penetration here with lime zest and citrus peel forming the finish that has so much tension and precision. I cannot believe there is a Les Folatières '04 out there that could hold a torch to this.