2011 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

(these Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot vines are in the lieu-dit en la Richard, just above Chevalier-Montrachet): Good pale, bright yellow. Pure, subdued aromas of flowers, menthol and stone. Juicy and precise, with lovely intensity and acid cut to its concentrated floral and mineral flavors. For all its brightness this is quite silky and suave--not to mention easy to taste today. Finishes with noteworthy length.

The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres offers attractive scents of honeysuckle, apricot and almond that are well-defined. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with crisp acidity, hints of quince and apricot with a citric twist on the long finish. It just needs a little more terroir expression. Drink 2015-2025. This was the first time I had been back to Louis Jadot’s expansive winery on the northern outskirts of Beaune since their memorable 150th anniversary tasting back in 2008. As I quipped in the previous issue, Jacques Lardiere was then talking about his imminent retirement that seemed to never come. But on this occasion, there was new winemaker Frederic Barnier there to greet me. He has large shoes to fill but he seems up to the task of steering this important Burgundy name to a new chapter, having worked alongside Jacques for a couple of years. “At the beginning, we were not so confident about the whites,” he explained in reference to his 2011s, “but it has been a nice surprise. The dry spring of 2011 affected the level of ripeness but it has lent freshness, but with low acidity.” We did not have time to taste the entire portfolio of over 80 crus, but instead took a sample of 20 white and reds from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Importer: Kobrand, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

Initially this opens with just enough reduction that I would suggest decanting it if you're going to try a bottle young. With air, an airy, cool and complex nose reveals notes of wet stone, acacia blossom, citrus peel and white peach. There is a fine sense of underlying tension to the stony, saline and utterly delicious medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a chiseled, pure and simply gorgeously long finish. This is excellent and offers fine cellar potential. Tasted: Jun 15, 2014. Drink: 2018+