2006 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

The Girardin 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres offers peach and purple plum accented with lemon zest and crushed stone. Less effusive and sweetly-fruited than many of the other wines in this collection, it offers nutty piquancy, faintly bitter fruit pit notes, and distinct stoniness in a long, just faintly warm finish. Expect this to need a year or two in bottle to show its true colors, and hopefully it will have at least 6 years of aging potential. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.

Pale straw-yellow color. Flowers, hazelnut and fresh straw on the deep nose. Initially tight and a bit angular, but with superb juicy lift and sneaky density to its flavors of citrus fruits, mineral and white flowers. Began with limited sweetness and pliancy but took on greater roundness with air, all the while remaining precise and firm.

A classic Puligny nose combines a hint of wood with floral, citrus and green apple aromas that lead to subtly spiced, intense and detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess fine finishing complexity and excellent backend punch. I like the balance here and there is a sense of generosity yet an underlying reserve as well. Drink 2010+