1970 Quinta do Noval Nacional

Palish red. Sexy, vibrant perfume of red cherry, strawberry and sandalwood. Lush, sweet and full-blown, with captivating red fruit and spice flavors nicely framed by harmonious acidity. Hints at some alcoholic warmth in the mid-palate and on the aftertaste but nonetheless finishes spicy, long and firm-edged. Mature and perfect for drinking over the next few years. I've had better, and more youthful, bottles of this in the past, with more pristine cooperage.

Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1970 Nacional remains a young, unevolved wine, as well as the lightest and least intense of the 1970, 1963 and 1962. That is not to suggest it is a wimpish wine as it is a powerful vintage port, but it is unbelievably graceful, youthful, and complex. The huge nose of licorice, smoke, jammy black-cherry and cassis fruit is followed by a wine of seamless components, all super-packed with gorgeously pure fruit, yet the wine is not heavy or overbearing. There is a real sense of elegance to this spectacular, young Quinta do Noval Nacional. My best guess is that it might be worth opening a bottle to celebrate the new century, but this wine will not hit its peak until around 2010; it will last until 2030. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000