2011 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Auslese

Destined for auction, the 2011 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 18 displays scents and admirably clear flavors of Normandy apple cider garlanded with heliotrope and lily and tinged with marzipan. Juicy and unusually vivacious compared with its immediate Auslese siblings, this buoyant and refreshing elixir finishes with lift and winsome interaction of floral, fruity and confectionary notes. I suspect it will prove well worth following through at least 2030. Christoph Tyrell and cellarmaster-vineyard manager Christian Vogt’s team began picking astonishingly early in 2011: September 5th for Pinot Blanc and the 13th for Riesling, finishing up already on October 18. Vogt notes that this year he let residual sugar approach the legal limit in the estate’s trocken offerings, in an effort to moderate their levels of alcohol. Fortunately, the acidity of the botrytis-free Karthauserhof 2011s – though analytically relatively low – proved efficacious, thus helping preserve a dry taste among wines that harbored judicious residual sugar. Legally dry wines have always been Tyrells’ personal preference and consequently a category on which he places special emphasis. If the material that informs such wines were to lack purity or focus, it would be immediately evident. But it must be said that much of what underlay this year’s off-dry and residually sweet Karthauserhof bottlings was manifestly less pristine or potentially intriguing, a fact that is not hidden by their residual sugar. This year’s array of separate Auslese bottlings is even more numerous than that of the past two vintages. “Some years,” explains Vogt, “we’re of the opinion that there aren’t any great differences from one lot of Auslese to another and we bottle them blended together. But with these 2011s, we were convinced that each was distinct in character.” A similar opinion no doubt underlies the present collection’s unprecedentedly numerous B.A.s and T.B.A.s. As Vogt points out, “Even from the analyses you can see that each one of them represents a step up in concentration,” but he adds that the estate’s 200th anniversary of (Leornardy-Rautenstrauch-Tyrell) family ownership was also an influential factor. Even more astonishing to me than their sheer numbers is the fact that all of these B.A.s and T.B.A.s were bottled already in February following the vintage, which I suspect is also without precedent. (Twenty-five liters of T.B.A. from the same must that informed this year’s auction-bound “Nr. 51” represented the sole hold-out, and were still fermenting as of last autumn.) Importers: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463 (though only through vintage 2011), Winesellers, Ltd., Niles, IL; tel. (847) 647-1100