2005 Alvarinho Dorado Superior

The 2005 ALVARINHO SUPERIOR “DORADO” is a library wine, not available but revisited in the USA for a status check. While it certainly seems mature now, it is quite lovely and has held well, a fine effort for Marcial Dorado, from his early days. With a burnished feel, this is gloriously crisp and pure, with wonderfully tasty fruit and a juicy finish. It is simply delicious. There are some hints that it needs to be drunk soon, but it is quite lovely now and I was frankly surprised that with an hour’s air and warmth it still improved. I like this incarnation as much as I once liked it young, a very fine statement from a young winery and another example of modern Vinho Verde being a lot different than you might think. This is exceeding the drinking window I originally gave it and by a considerable margin. Now, on many types of wines, Vinho Verde certainly being one of them, I tend to be conservative and wait until it gets there before extending drinking windows. It is now very much looking like a 10 year wine, and might even go longer—although once again, let’s see when we get there. Keep in mind, however, that I got this one in 2012 straight from the winery. It hasn’t exactly been hanging around retailer shelves. Note: In earlier notes on this wine, even though I also said there was no oak used, I at one point referenced barrel for storage and aging. That, of course, was a slip of the tongue; it should’ve been “tank.” While this had extended lees contact, I reiterate that it saw no oak. Drink now-2015. Portugal’s Alvarinho territory has some long established stars, like Soalheiro and Anselmo Mendes, but that’s not all there is. One of my favorites is this fine estate owned by Marcial Dorado, a Spaniard who traveled across the border from Spain to set this winery up in Portugal. He has certainly demonstrated again, as I’ve thought for some time, that he is a terrific producer making exceptional Alvarinho. This lineup is differently styled, but the quality is quite comparable to the point where I can only say “pick ‘em.” Importer: Vieux Vins, Inc., d/b/a The Rare Wine Company, Vineburg, Ca.; tel: (707) 996-4484