2006 Gevrey Chambertin Poissenots

Smoked meat aromas allied to ripe black fruits and saline palate savor are themes reprised from his Chambolle Feusselottes in Geantet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Le Poissenot. Suggestions of leather, wood smoke, and brown spices give this a pungency to match its extra measure of sheer concentration vis-a-vis its stable mates. Yet primary juiciness is not short-changed here. On the contrary, this is lip-smacking, invigorating, and accessible, yet structured to suggest a potential to keep paying dividends for 6-8 years. A veritable shower of salts and minerals in the finish portends future pizzazz. After having been pleasantly surprised – even startled – by the quality of Vincent Geantet's 2005 collection, his 2006s demonstrated his talents in a challenging vintage. Geantet waited until the 25th of September to begin picking. He says that at most 10% of fruit needed to be culled from his crop, because proper vine management minimized problems with under-ripeness, botrytis, or taint of hail. Furthermore, his overall yields – unusually for the vintage – were, he reported, normal. As is routine at this address, a nearly uniform 30% level of new barrels was maintained (without its being obviously noticeable); malos were over well before Spring; and bottling took place during the second winter, leaving no indication in the glass that this was premature. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228