2002 Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge

Showing fantastically is the big, rich 2002 Esprit de Beaucastel, which offers up a youthful array of ripe black fruits, licorice, singed herbs and background meatiness to go with full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. I like where it’s at now, but there is still notable structure here and it should evolve gracefully going forward. Drink now-2017. Certainly a reference point for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek continues to produce wines in a restrained, age-worthy and savory style that sets them apart. Both 2010 and 2011 are strong here, with the 2010s showing additional depth and concentration and the 2011s showing pretty, elegant profiles. I suspect the 2011s will be on faster evolutionary tracks, but given their balance, they could surprise in the cellar. In addition to their current releases, I was able to do short verticals of their Esprit de Beaucastel (which is now called Esprit de Tablas) and Panoplie. To say I came away impressed would be an understatement. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

(57% mourvedre, 27% syrah, 10% grenache and 6% counoise) Moderately saturated, bright medium ruby. Aromas of black cherry, minerals, tree bark and forest floor. A step up in concentration from the Cotes de Tablas; sweet, dense and spicy, showcasing the very ripe, rich mourvedre. Finishes complex, dry and saline, with a savory persistence.

(a blend of 57% mourvedre, 27% syrah, 10% grenache and 6% counoise) Ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, maraschino cherry and licorice. Superripe, sweet and creamy, with densely packed black fruit and licorice flavors lifted by a floral nuance. Not yet particularly complex but juicy, pliant and seductively sweet. Tannins are buried in fruit.