2004 Ermitage Blanc de l'Oree

A wine that tastes akin to liquid rocks as well as white currants and quince is the light golden 2004 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree. This is a fabulous wine, with blockbuster intensity and richness. This is the kind of wine that may last 50-100 years, but of course most readers will opt for earlier consumption. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Light yellow. A huge, room-filling bouquet includes suggestions of peach, apricot, mango, floral honey, marzipan and dried flowers. Deep in sweet orchard, pit and exotic fruit flavors, with a lush, creamy texture and a late note of tangy minerals. For a wine with such flavor impact and volume this is really elegant. The finish is powerful and sweet, with outstanding persistence.

Light gold color. Explosively aromatic nose offers floral honey, passion fruit, lichee and ripe plantain. Initially quite oily and thick on the palate, but quickly picked up a vibrant mineral tone that enlivened the exotic, almost tropical flavors. Finishes with superb lift and length. A dense powerhouse of a white with uncanny energy and focus.