2010 Clos Fourtet

Lovely deep plum colour, vivid violet reflections, this delivers exactly what you want from a 2010 - with clarity of blackberry and bilberry fruit, waves of fresher pomegranate and juicy greengage, a ton of liquorice, fennel and gunsmoke, taut with tension and precisely-cut tannins. Exceptional quality. 80% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

The 2010 Clos Fourtet is a behemoth, with a deep, powerful, massive style that either needs two hours in a decanter or another 4-5 years in the cellar. Deep black fruits, truffly earth, tobacco, and graphite notes all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a huge, unctuous mouthfeel, and ripe yet present tannins. It picks up more and more purity with air, and this incredible effort is going to have another two decades or more of longevity.

Dark and intense ruby red at 13 years old, and kicks off with a fresh, fierce burst of cassis pastille, bilberry, liqourice, anis, toasted fennel seeds and slate. Totally delicious, muscular tannins, this builds slowly but surely, expanding through the palate, and has retained its austere side that was evident En Primeur and that might have been expected to have softened by now. Plenty of cocoa bean, tobacco, sandalwood and cigar box as it opens, deliciously confident. A Clos Fourtet that will power through the ages, right at the top of its game. 80% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.