1981 Cheval Blanc
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Tasting notes
The 1981 Cheval Blanc has long been one of the over-achieving wines of a patchy vintage, though I had not seen a bottle for some time. This has a refined bouquet with black fruit, briary and light forest floor scents. The Merlot is more expressive than the Cabernets. The palate has a sweet entry, gentle at first so that you almost fail to notice the grip and structure behind this Cheval Blanc. This suggests that perhaps it has faded a little in recent years, forgivable given its age. Still, it remains a delicious, lighter-styled Saint-Émilion undeservedly overshadowed by the following vintage. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall at Chelsea Vintners' The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide dinner.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Neal Martin, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Served blind next to La Mission of the same vintage. Very dark ruby still and obviously very sweet and ripe. It was served blind and I thought it could be a Pomerol. Round and sweet with great density. Very clean. Clearly one of the finest 1981s (though I have very fond memories of Certan de May 1981).
About the producer
Ch. Cheval Blanc is one the finest producers in Bordeaux. The Saint-Emilion estate’s Cabernet Franc-dominant wines are consistently among the top wines of the vintage.