2003 Hermitage Le Greal

The blockbuster 2003 Hermitage Le Greal tastes like a liqueur of creme de cassis interwoven with liquid rocks and blackberry jam. Marc Sorrel told me it is “original,” which I took to mean he wasn’t especially fond of such a thick and enormously concentrated wine. It is a viscous, concentrated, powerful, full-bodied Hermitage with atypical definition and freshness for its high alcohol and super-endowed, thick, rich style. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following 25. Unfortunately, production is a measly 175 cases. Importer: JAO Wine Imports, McLean, VA.

(there are just 8 pieces in vintage 2003, vs. a typical 15) Saturated black ruby. Slightly medicinal blackberry jam and bitter chocolate aromas of outstanding depth. Like a black hole on the palate, with very dense, thick, sweet flavors of blackberry, chocolate, minerals and spicecake. A wine of extraordinary solidity and palate-saturating extract, with the sheer material to support its 15. 8% alcohol. This is almost too big for the mouth; I had the impression that it tried to exit my mouth between my front teeth. Extremely long, palate-dusting finish of lush black fruits and minerals. Une bombe atomique," Sorrel volunteers.

The blockbuster 2003 Hermitage Le Greal tastes like a liqueur of creme de cassis interwoven with liquid rocks and blackberry jam. Marc Sorrel told me it is “original,” which I took to mean he wasn’t especially fond of such a thick and enormously concentrated wine. It is a viscous, concentrated, powerful, full-bodied Hermitage with atypical definition and freshness for its high alcohol and super-endowed, thick, rich style. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following 25. Unfortunately, production is a measly 175 cases. Feb 2006, www.robertparker.com