1990 Echezeaux
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The Wine Advocate
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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Tasted at the evening dinner in Southwold. This rare Burgundy has a very refined bouquet that is shifting towards secondary aromas of oyster shell, thyme and Girolles over the patina of crystalline red fruit. It is simply beautifully focused. The palate is very well balanced with nigh perfect acidity, a core of sweetness that is fading with time, a tang of orange zest and quince towards the deft finish. But there is a slight cheesy note towards the finish and in the glass, it does not hold up as well as Engel’s Grands Echezeaux ’93 served alongside and after 20 minutes there is a strong molasses note on the finish and the nose has become diffuse. Drink up! Tasted January 2012. (NM)
About the producer
The wines of Henri Jayer (1922-2006) have mythical status in Burgundy. Coveted by many but tasted by just a precious few, they are some of the region’s rarest and most desirable – considered by some to be the pinnacle of what can be achieved with Pinot Noir.