2011 Corton Charlemagne

Two vintages of Coche Dury’s Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru follow. Neither 2011 nor 2003 is especially highly regarded, but it is precisely vintages like these that can be so instructive because they tell us so much about what talented growers can achieve in challenging years. The 2011 Charlemagne needs several hours of air to open, which is not surprising, as it has always been a stubborn wine. I remember that Jean-François Coche hesitated to show the Charlemagne when I stopped by to taste the bottled 2011s, as he felt the long malos had resulted in a wine that needs more time in bottle to fully come together. Now, at nearly age ten, the 2011 remains quite vibrant and nervy, with striking citrus, floral and mineral notes laced into a racy frame. All it needs is a bit more flesh, but it’s the sort of flesh that develops with more time in bottle.

Coche-Dury’s 2011 Corton-Charlemagne kicks off a flight of stellar white Burgundies. Of course, the 2011 is far too young to be at its best. Tonight, it is the translucent purity of the citrus and lemon confit flavors that stands out most. This really needs time to be at its very best.