1988 Corton Charlemagne
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Jancis Robinson MW
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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Of these three first wines the 1988 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne was the most advanced in its soft-textured, sweet, evolved fruit.
Very mineral nose and a deep green highlights in the gold. Quite well fondu (melted) already with a hint of licorice. This has masses of acidity and structure and is very similar to all the 1988s, red and white. Very muscular. Although there is lots of acid, there's not that much obvious ripeness but lots of savoury substance. Long and lots still to come. Very, very lively and still quite chewy. (JR)
About the producer
Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury is one of the most sought-after names in Burgundy, famed for producing some of the most expensive white wines in the world. The demand for these fiercely collected wines far outstrips supply.