2006 Corton Charlemagne

There are three and a half barrels worth of Javillier’s 2006 Corton-Charlemagne. For all of its textural opulence (and 14% alcohol), this strikes refreshingly citric (lime and grapefuit) and distinctly mineral themes. It is very slightly tripped up in finish by resinous notes and faint astringency from new oak, which will hopefully integrate, perhaps even short term. Certainly there is impressive material here whose evolution should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. But the almost monumental 2005 is in another class. The ever-experimental Patrick Javillier continues to pursue a unique approach, vinifying and elevating separate lots from each cru that in turn emphasize fruit, minerality, mouth feel, and structure; then assembling them late. (For a long time, Javillier distinguished as “Cuvee Speciale,” bottlings done later and without filtration. But in 2006, no such distinction was observed, and all of the wines are untiltered.) In 2003, Javillier adopted the contrarian viewpoint that the wines needed ample battonage and time on the lees to insure a structure that would compensate for low acidity, but in 2006 he felt the need to rack and bottle somewhat earlier than usual to preserve freshness and – in his words – “Burgundian character.” While he touts the virtues of this vintage for early drinking – and this is one address where 2004 and 2005 appear today to have the edge in quality, including potential longevity – samples of several of Javillier’s young 2006s that had taken on air for a day were, perhaps tellingly, more revelatory and satisfying that those freshly uncorked. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93