1986 Corton Charlemagne

The 1986 Corton-Charlemagne is a little more generous than the 1988, but it shares that wine's structural underpinnings. A powerful, full-bodied wine, the 1988 is laced with dried yellow fruits, tobacco, smoke and incense. The 1986 has held up well, but it remains somewhat rustic, especially in this context.

Lovely, complex aromas of butter and hazelnut, with a sweet, candied aspect. The candied character resolves to toasted marshmallow on the palate, still with the hazelnut, and with very good acidity. As one would imagine from a typically backward grand-cru appellation at 23 years old, this is rich, full-bodied and powerful, still in terrific form. (CM)

Last Tasted 8/92 Jadot's white burgundies are always among the slowest to evolve, so it is not surprising that this immensely promising 1986 still tastes young and backward. While full-bodied and expansive on the palate, the acidity is higher than normal (Jadot frequently blocks the malo-lactic). The fresh color, as well as the lack of evolution in its bouquet and taste suggest this wine would benefit from 3-5 years of further cellaring. It will easily last for up to two decades.