2007 Corton Charlemagne
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Tasting notes
The de Montille 2007 Corton-Charlemagne originates with 30 year old vines. (First estate-bottling of fruit originating in a neighboring portion of Corton Pougets that was grafted to Chardonnay from Pinot is not anticipated until the 2010 vintage.) Fresh apricot, grapefruit, tangerine, and hints of flowers and chalk dust in the nose carry onto a palate that manages to combine a surprising sense of viscosity, underlying mineral density, and subtle oiliness of texture with energy and refreshment. Bittersweet citrus rind adds to the sense of invigoration and grip in a palpably mineral finish that – perhaps not so surprising given its location on this grand cru massif – is almost red wine-like. "We feel confident that the terroir serves for a good sense of minerals," comments de Montille, "and now what we want to work on is the finesse, the lift." That aptly sums up this impressively-concentrated, muscular and sinewy wine which should be well worth revisiting over the course of at least the next 8-10 years. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
Critic scores
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pineapple and wet stone aromas. Big and sweet on entry, then quite closed in the middle, with a light touch to the lemon, crushed stone and mineral flavors. Lovely silky wine with very long, palate-staining flavors of lemon and minerals. But this seems less tightly coiled than the outstanding Cailleret.
(malo almost finished): Reticent aromas of apple, pear and menthol. Rich and fine-grained, with dense but sharply delineated flavors of stone, white flowers and apple further lifted by a floral element. The steely, gripping finish leaves an almost bitter tannic impression, which may be exacerbated by a touch of remaining malic acidity. Late notes of wet stone and mint. Incidentally, Alix de Montille is now in charge of making the white wines here, with her brother Etienne responsible for the reds, as well as for the wines of Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet.
About the producer
Volnay’s Domaine de Montille is one of the most historic in the Côte d’Or. Founded in 1730, the property remains family-owned and run, with Etienne de Montille – the ninth generation – at the helm today.